The Mt. Everest South Col Expedition is more than the most famous mountain on earth. It has unique beauty, mystery and mood. Mt. Everest’s local names give you a sense of how the mountain commands respect from all who see her. Standing incredibly tall silhouetted against the shared sky of Nepal and Tibet, this mountain has many names, with two most locally: Chomolungma and Sagarmatha.
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Duration: 57 days
Grade 10 Climb (Extreme): require that you are very fit and have previous climbing experience over 6,500m within 24 months of this expedition. Grade 10 includes multiple days trekking to a base camp at altitude where you will ascend to altitudes over 6,500m and up to 8,850m. Using crampons, helmet, ice axe, being roped up, understanding how to ascend on fixed ropes and ‘toe’ into ice, crevasse rescue, ice axe arrest and abseil will all feature. You must have strong resilience and have trained for this type of expedition.
EDGE Travel Worldwide has always been fascinated by what is also called “The Third Pole.” late Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa became the first people to stand on top of the world on the 29th May, 1953. Since then there have been other many notable ascents to the summit. Possibly the most colorful story about the early attempts on Everest is the one involving Captain J. Noel and his native companions. He disguised himself as a Mohammaden and made a journey from Darjeeling through Northwest Sikkim and round the north of Kanchanjunga in an attempt to reach Everest. Unfortunately, not even the disguise could see him through. His mission was out short just sixty-five km from Everest when a posse of Tibetan soldiers forced them to turn back.
Although there are a dozen or so routes on Mt. Everest, we follow the classical route, traditionally the most reliable way to the summit. Climbing Everest has been successfully organised and climbed many times since 1953, but this should not lull prospective Everest climbers into complacency. Everest is a deadly mountain. One cannot approach the mountain with anything but a serious determination and focused mountaineering attitude. Everest is still as inexplicable, beguiling and magnificent as ever.
Mount Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet (China), as well as many others less frequently climbed routes. Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953 and the first recognised of fifteen routes to the top by 1996.
Camp 1: 6400m – 20000ft.
Camp 1 is situated at the flat area of snow endless snow deep crevasses and mountain walls. Because of the Sun’s reflection in this area, we get a warm ambience. In the night we listen the deep murmuring cracking sounds of crevasses beneath our tent. These are the areas where we have to walk to reach camp 2.
Camp 2: 6750m – 21000ft.
Camp 2 is situated at the height of 6750m – 21000ft. It is located at the foot of the icy mount Lhotse wall though where we have to go ahead. Clouds roll-in from the low range of the Himalayan valleys to the bottom of our camp 2. Sometimes the wind here seems very violent, enough to destroy the tents. After climbing higher, we reach camp 3.
Camp 3: 7100m – 22300ft.
Camp 3 is located at the height of 7100m – 22300ft, adjoining to mount Lhotse wall. After climbing the 4000ft. Lhotse wall by using fixed rope and with prior acclimatisation, it leads us to camp 4. Also on the way we have to ascend the steep hollow bands (lose, down-slopping and rotten limestone). From their crossing a short snowfield, the route moves ahead up the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. Oxygen should be use above base camp 3 when needed.
Camp 4: 8400m. – 26000ft.
Camp 4 is located at height of 8400m – 26000ft. It is the last camp of the Expedition. From here the summit is only about 500m away. This is the final and dangerous part of the climb. This place is besieged by ferocious and violent winds. The usual best way to reach to summit is via the narrow South – East Ridge which precedes the South Summits 28710ft.
|DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION||Departure is usually London Heathrow, this may vary and the specific location will be provided upon booking|
|WEAR||Comfortable Clothing for the flight|
Arrival in Kathmandu airport
Preparation for Expedition
Briefing at Ministry of Tourism
Fly to Namche by helicopter
Acclimatisation day in Namche Bazar
Trek to Khumjung
Trek to Tengboche Monastery
Trek to Periche
Acclimatisation day in Periche
Trek to Lobuche
Trek to Everest Base Camp
Climbing Period on Mt. Everest
After climbing period, helicopter flight from Base Camp to Kathmandu
Free in Kathmandu
Transfer to airport for your onward journey.
The Mountaineering phase for the summit attempt from Base Camp
Day 16: Climb to Camp 1
Day 17: Rest in Camp 1
Day 18: Climb to Camp 2
Day 19: Rest in Camp 2
Day 20: Descend to base camp
Day 21 to 25: Rest in base camp
Day 26: Climb to Camp 2
Day 27 Rest in Camp 2
Day 28: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
Day 29: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
Day 30: Descend to base camp
Day 31 to 37: Rest at Base Camp or descend lower; evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
Day 38: Climb to Camp 2
Day 39: Rest in Camp 2
Day 40: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
Day 41: Climb to Camp 4 (use O2)
Day 42: Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
Day 43: Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 4.
Day 44: Climb to Summit of Lhotse, return to Camp 2.
Day 45: Descent to base camp.
Mount Everest Expedition Required Equipment:
- X1 Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
- x1 pair Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
- x1 Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your warm hat
- x2 Ascender: right or left-hand ascender
- x1 Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport”
- x6 Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
- x3 Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
- x1 pair Mountaineering boots
- x1 Hiking shoes/boots: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp. x1 Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
- x1 pair Booties: down is best.
- x6 Wool or synthetic socks.
- x3 pair Liner socks.
- Synthetic Short underwear: A non-cotton style underwear.
- x3 Lightweight Long Underwear: long-sleeved shirt and long pants. x1 Heavyweight long underwear.
- x2 Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 2 pair
- x2 Lightweight Nylon Pants: 2 pair
- x1 Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
- x1 Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellent
- x1 Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket x1 Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
- x1 Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below
- x1 Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2. x1 Down Suit: We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
- x2 Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat.
- x2 Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
- x2 Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot
- x2 Bandana & Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
- x2 Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
- x2 Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds. x2 Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
- x2 Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
- x2 Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
- x2 Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
- x1 Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
- x1 Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
- x1 Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic. x1 Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
- Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
- x2 Self-inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
- x2 Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
- x1 Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles.
- x1 Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug.
- x1 Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of. x2 Spoon: Plastic spoon.
- x2 Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries.
- Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better.
- Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks.)
- x3 Water bottles: 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
- x3 Water bottle parkas: fully insulated with zip opening.
- x1 Thermos: 1 liter
- x1 Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent. x1 Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
- x3 Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each and use Hotronic foot warmer system.
- x1 Knife or multi tool (optional).
- Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear. Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
- Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
- x2 12oltr Duffel bags with locks: To transport equipment.
- Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
- Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
- Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, plasters, Ibuprofen, blister care,
personal medications, etc.
- Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.